From Bucks to Starbucks, downtown coffee shops offer caffeine, character

Nagesh Virupaksha, a quality control specialist at Johnson & Johnson, knows good brew when he tastes it.

He chooses to come to Starbucks on Nassau Street daily for an early morning dose of straight black coffee, during the afternoon for informal business meetings and occasionally at night to sip a cup of reliable, unadulterated café Americano. When abroad, his criterion for hotels is rather different from that of the average traveler or businessman.

"Put me close to a Starbucks!" said Virupaksha.

With customers as staunchly devoted as Virupaksha, with a chain almost 5,800 strong and with an international market and appeal, it seems like Starbucks would squash all competition.

But in Princeton, other coffee shops appear to coexist rather peacefully within the small downtown district, where Starbucks also claims its home.

According to Mintel Consumer Intelligence, a market research firm, independent coffeehouses have flourished alongside Starbucks, with the total number of U.S. coffeehouses doubling to 13,300 from 1996 to 2001. The possibility of a mutually beneficial relationship between Starbucks and independent shops exists, according to the poll.

Princeton seems a prime example of harmony between local shops, small franchises and international chains.

Bucks County Coffee Co. can be found comfortably nestled in Palmer Square. With more than 40 stores spread throughout the Northeast, Bucks is still hard to distinguish from any local establishment.

Lauri, who works behind the counter, sees a definite difference between the quality of service at Bucks and Starbucks.

"Sometimes people come in and you know what they want," she said. "They just give you exact change."

Rolph Reese and his wife, who live above the shop, have been patrons of Bucks for 12 years.

"My wife stopped making coffee so now we come here," he said.

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Bucks features an assortment of bagels, sweets and other baked goods.

Dave Collins, a Princeton Theological Seminary student, prefers the coffee at Starbucks but the setting at Bucks, which typically attracts an older crowd.

"The coffee at Starbucks is super-strong. Takes the enamel off your teeth," he said. "But Buck's has better atmosphere."

In a town where coffee is the lifeblood, it takes more than caffeine to draw customers.

At Small World Coffee on Witherspoon Street, the varied clientele and the interior design are a large factor in its appeal.

The colorful walls are splashed with local art, skylights and mirrors create an airy ambiance in the back and the constant buzz of small talk and light music draws in customers.

"Small World has the best balance of community and university," said Karen Wolfgang '05, who frequents Small World to study, attend meetings and meet professors.

Wolfgang, president of SPEAC, recognizes Starbucks' role in creating a national appetite for coffee, but is troubled by its present domination.

"Starbucks did get the culture going. But it's time to change that; they're no longer necessary."

The owner of Ebenezer's, another local establishment, claims his business is faring well, despite being a few doors down from Starbucks.

"Starbucks does not have much of an impact," said Jun Lai, the owner of Ebenezer's.

The unique identity of each coffee shop — paired with a distinct and often loyal constituency — is a testament to the success of the local coffee trade.

However, another issue has recently segregated coffee drinkers — fair trade. With Small World, Bucks and even Starbucks offering forms of fair trade coffee, choosing which coffee shop to attend has a new political dimension.

Each coffee shop in Princeton, in carving out a niche and an image, a social and even political identity, strives to stand out and create the best all-around experience for its customers.