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Masala Grill's Indian cuisine spices up Princeton's restaurant scene

The Masala Grill, one of the latest additions to the Princeton dining scene, has excellent food, semi-reasonable prices, and a pleasant atmosphere.

Dedicated to creating "innovative" Indian cuisine, the menu is centered on traditional Indian recipes coupled with creative spins on old favorites. Tucked away on Chambers Street, the restaurant is situated conveniently close to campus. It is in the location previously occupied by Twist Rojo and has the same owners as its predecessor.

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Simply decorated with burgundy and cream-colored walls and nifty beaded lamps, Masala provides an excellent escape from the realm of traditional Princeton European-style faire.

The restaurant derives its name from the Hindi term for "mixture of spices." After sampling its diverse menu you'll understand why.

Each dish provides well-apportioned combinations of cumin, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, and other spices characteristic of Indian cuisine, filling every plate with robust flavor. And since they use less oil than most Indian restaurants, you can really enjoy the food's intense flavors without feeling like you just consumed a can of Crisco.

To begin your meal, Masala offers a number of starters including Samosas (potato and vegetable turnovers), Aloo Tikki (potato cakes), and a variety of Pakoras (vegetable, chicken, or fish fritters).

Although al-most all the appetizers are fried, they are each done in their own distinct and flavorful batters, and are particularly delicious when coupled with the distinctive dipping sauces.

My particular recommendation is the Samosa ($3.95), a spiced turnover of potatoes, peas, and cashews enclosed in a soft yet crispy crust. Another good option is the Palak Aloo Tikki ($4.95), a blend of potatoes, spinach, and herbs which is sautéed until crisp.

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For entrees you have a choice between two distinct sides of the menu: Tandoori and Curry. Tandoori selections are cooked on a sizzling plate in an Indian clay oven (a tandoor), and usually come on a skewer over a bed of grilled onions.

Curry, on the other hand, is not a single spice as generally thought, but rather a mixture of different spices. Thus each curry is highly unique in flavor, color, ingredients, and texture.

Masala's curries are the highlight of its menu, and the restaurant's most flavorful dishes can be found in these spiced combinations.

For vegetable lovers, the Navaratan Korma ($9.95) is among the best dishes available. A blend of nine different vegetables in a creamy sauce with a hint of cardamom, it is so delicious that even carnivores at the table will approve.

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Another great vegetarian option is the Baingan Bhartha ($9.95), a sweetly spiced mixture of eggplant, tomato, and onions. For meat-eaters, the Chicken Sag ($13.50) is one of the best options, with tender chicken cooked in a flavorful sauce of tomato, onion, ginger, and spinach.

A decent back-up is the Lamb Rogan Josh, or lamb curry. Although well-spiced, I found this dish to be a bit too oily and the meat a little tough.

The Tandoori dishes are also very good, but not as flavorful as the curries. My personal favorite was the Mint Chicken Tikka ($13.95), a platter of tender sizzling chicken flavored with mild spices and mint leaves. The Shrimp Tikka ($16.95) and Tandoori Vegetables ($9.95) were also decent, but a bit bland for my tastes.

Because In-dian food is served a la carte, it is necessary to order rice or bread on the side to compliment the main dishes. White rice tends to be the staple side dish, but I would recommend forking out an extra dollar and ordering the Naan, or Indian flatbread.

The garlic Naan ($2.95) is a soft and thin bread topped with a fine layer of butter and garlic and then baked. Onion Kulcha ($2.95) is the best of the flatbreads, with a soft and doughy exterior filled with tiny bits of sautéed onion and cilantro.

As for desserts, there are only two Indian options to choose from: Galub Jamon or Rice Pudding. Galub Jamon is the equivalent of Indian doughnuts which are fried and then served warm and drenched in a sweet honey sauce.

Needless to say, such an intense combination of sugar and fat has got to be good (and it is). The Rice Pudding, on the other hand, could be skipped. The restaurant also has a decent selection of Western desserts, and the triple-layer chocolate cake provides a solid alternative to Masala's more traditional sweets.

However, it is important to note that owner Suchitara Patel changes her menu every three to four months, adjusting to seasonal ingredients in order to maintain freshness in the restaurant's cuisine. So, you may want to head out soon if you plan on sampling some of the aforementioned recommendations.

The restaurant accepts most major credit cards and it is strictly BYOB. Lastly, when planning to eat a meal at Masala, you might want to budget a decent chunk of time as the service, though friendly, is a bit slow.

My own trip to Masala Grill was punctuated by a celebrity sighting of Princeton's very own President, Shirley Tilghman. "The food is quite good," she said, "and the prices are very reasonable."

Although not a student's fiscal dream, I would have to generally agree with President Tilghman on both counts. Masala provides both delicious and distinctive cuisine at relatively reasonable prices and is certainly well worth the visit.