Alchemist and Barrister

Due to my family’s love of Teresa Caffe and Winberie’s, I haven’t given many other Princeton establishments a chance in the past. I figured I’d start with a reputable favorite — the Alchemist & Barrister. While not exactly an adventurous choice, the A&B is a safe dining experience that deserves its status as a Princeton standby.

The meal began with roasted vegetable flatbread, a light appetizer that struck a delicious balance between goat cheese, a soft crust and flavorful scallions. For the main course, I decided to be a little more adventurous and ordered the baked shepherd's pie off the “enduring traditions” menu. The ground lamb was simple and fresh. Corn, peas and carrots cut through the taste of the filling. The mashed cheddar crust was artfully arranged around the filling, which prevented it from overpowering the dish’s potato taste. I was pleasantly surprised that the A&B avoided the usual restaurant salt trap, but I was a bit underwhelmed by their sweet potato fries’ bland taste.

The A&B is a restaurant largely aimed toward hungry carnivores, and its bar-food fare of buffalo wings, nachos and burgers give the restaurant a casual vibe. Don’t expect an expansive salad menu (one of my vegan friends snubbed the restaurant, stating that she wouldn’t find anything to eat on the menu), but there are a few lighter options for those who aren’t looking to indulge in the A&B’s comfort foods. My friends enjoyed the grilled tarragon chicken and Mediterranean salads.

The A&B’s dessert menu features Bent Spoon ice cream, spirited coffees and a few standard cake choices. I enjoyed a high-quality tiramisu, which has set me against ever eating Wilcox’s version again.

The only negative to the dinner was that the A&B seemed somewhat understaffed. Despite the mostly empty restaurant interior, the host seemed surprised to see us without a reservation and told us we might have to wait for a table. After some reconsideration, he took us directly to a prime center table. Still, throughout the evening we felt a bit neglected, even among a small dinner crowd.

Open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, the A&B is a delicious — albeit slow — treat. Whether you’re looking to drown your sorrows after a final in bottomless macaroni and cheese or you’re searching for a pre-Lawnparties brunch spot in town, the A&B is a safe pick that will leave you full and satisfied.

4 out of 5 paws

Pros: Big portions, good location.