Balanced, Bold, and Fresh — Small World’s New Menu Items Make the Perfect Bite for Spring

“Oh — this new menu is only available at our other location!” 

Deflated, I blinked at the sunny barista who smiled at me with the saintlike tranquility somehow shared by all Small World employees. I gazed forlornly at the glossy poster that had so enraptured me — NEW MENU NEW FLAVORS — and noticed, belatedly, the address printed below: 254 Nassau Street, not Witherspoon.

I was dimly aware of this mysterious second Small World located somewhere down Nassau, but being too lazy to walk further than across the street, I’d never been particularly compelled to visit. This review presented the perfect opportunity to check out the lesser-known Small World, and of course, taste their revamped menu.

From East Pyne, the walk took around ten minutes. The Nassau location is significantly smaller, with limited indoor seating, but makes up for it with a smattering of outdoor tables. When I arrived, people were sitting outside, celebrating the rare day of sun with cups of coffee.

Inside, the new menu was displayed front and center: an expansive list that, according to owner Jessica Durrie, constitutes the café’s new “core menu.” After much deliberation, I ordered the Roasted Tomato Soup and Toastie, a plate of tater tots, and the “Daily Driver” from their wide selection of breakfast-sandwich called “Drivers.”

I tried the soup first, which was vibrant crimson, speckled with flecks of pepper. It tasted exactly how tomato soup does in my imagination: hot, familiar, with that full-bodied tomato flavor. It was delicious, though not particularly revolutionary. The Toastie on the side contained cheese pressed between two perfectly circular slices of bread, both sides crisp and buttery. Bread, butter, and cheese — a fool-proof combination that paired well with the soup.

On to the tater tots. Seven of them sat beside a homemade ketchup dip. Each one was a deep golden brown and closer in appearance to coconut macaroons than traditional cylindrical tater tots. Upon taking a bite, the crisp outer layer broke apart with a light crunch, and soft, starchy potato filled my mouth. It was surprisingly balanced: slightly buttery, salty, and texturally satisfying. 

The ketchup on the side made it even better. I’ve always been a proud ketchup hater, repelled by the sickly-sweet chemical flavor that taints everything it touches. This homemade ketchup was no Heinz, however. Made, according to Durrie, from the same tomatoes used in the soup, it was tangy and faintly sweet in a way that cut through the greasy undertones of the potatoes and brought out their richness.

At last, it was time for the Driver. It came parceled up in white parchment with a charming “HELLO MY NAME IS: Daily Driver” sticker. The sandwich itself looked like a burger, piled high and colorful. The first bite was unforgettable; the brioche bun was pillowy-soft and my teeth sank through with ease. But the real revelation was the egg. The wedge of soufflé egg, signature to all the Drivers, blew me away. If I dislike anything more than ketchup, it is cold egg — something about its rubbery texture and sulfuric odor triggers my gag reflex — but the Driver’s egg was a melt-in-your-mouth texture reminiscent of Japanese steamed egg. Coated in Cooper Sharp cheese and garlicky aioli, it created the richest, creamiest bite. The bold, earthy notes of the fresh arugula curbed any excessive heaviness. I was stunned by the cohesiveness of texture and flavor.

Finally, I explored the other house-made dipping sauces: specifically the Green Sauce and Raisin Hell Chutney. I was pleased to discover that both tasted natural, fresh, and flavorful. The Green Sauce was a creamy blend of herbs in the loveliest spring-green hue. The Raisin Hell Chutney was my favorite. Tomatoes, peppers, and spices merged into a chunky, sweet-and-sour sauce with a subtly piquant aftertaste. Both paired well with the sandwich.

By that point, I wished I could try the other menu options. Besides the Daily Driver, there are several variants: the Pile Driver with a layer of bacon confit, the Potato Driver with a thick hash brown patty, the Jersey Driver with a pork roll, and the Turkey Driver with a house-made turkey sausage. The new menu also includes the Crispy Hippie Bowl, which features a mixture of marinated kale, tater tots, chickpea and potato cakes, and pickles, topped with the Green Sauce. These, I’ll save for next time.

The new menu is available daily from open to 2 p.m. With the weather finally softening, the walk to Nassau’s Small World could be the perfect opportunity to take in the flowers while discovering a new brunch spot.

Alexis Choi is a contributing writer for The Prospect and a member of the Class of 2029. She can be reached at ac7729[at]princeton.edu.