Walking down Nassau Street, I almost missed Calico Grill entirely. It was marked only by a small sign offering little information about the restaurant. But after following the arrow down the alleyway next to CVS, my questions were soon answered. When I opened the door to Calico Grill, the Latin-American music gave me the impression that this would be no ordinary dining experience. The ambience made me feel like I had stumbled on some secret island. Unfortunately, the food didn't live up to the fantasy.
Calico Grill serves mainly seafood with influences from Baja and Central America. Its regional roots are reflected throughout the decorations, including one whole wall painted as a sea shore. Though I usually find painted ceilings a bit ostentatious for a business, the subtlety of the colors on Calico's ceiling was admirable, an atmospheric pastel with an intricate texture.
As the restaurant began to fill around 8 p.m., the lights dimmed, and the music seemed to complement the varying noise level in the room. The food presentation was deliberate and careful; there was a purple flower on every plate.
I was less impressed, however, by how the food tasted. Though the seafood was extraordinarily fresh, it lacked original flavor. The fish sandwich should not have been a sandwich: No mouth can open wide enough to accommodate a sandwich that large. Similarly, the trademark Calico Burger was more a tasteless chuck of beef than the nicely seasoned patty I was expecting. T.G.I. Friday's would have done better. But in an era when processed food is the norm, the freshness of the food at Calico Grill was a refreshing change. The dishes just needed a little zest.
In the appetizers and side items, at least, the taste was kicked up a notch. The seafood quesadilla was by far my favorite item on the menu because it showcased both culinary creativity and cultural influence. Many of the dishes featured a salsa with the best balance of spice and texture I have ever tasted.
Additionally, the wait staff at Calico Grill was both amicable and competent. My server's friendly disposition exhibited itself in the most mundane tasks, such as pouring a glass of water. Because of the small size of the restaurant, the service was also very prompt and attentive without being annoying.
The full restaurant occasionally made it difficult to hear my dinner partner with ease, so unless you want to take advantage of the need to sit closer together, this is not a good restaurant for a date. The crowds also made it difficult to be seated without a reservation; I observed several groups being told to wait. I suggest you grab some friends and head down the alley to see the world that awaits you on the other side. Though the taste sometimes falters, Calico Grill is definitely worth a shot.
Calico Grill 180 nassau street Pros Textured decor, fast service, fresh food Cons Mediocre entree taste
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