Witherspoon's new flavor

I found out the hard way that, like many Nassau Street restaurants, the Witherspoon Grill does not accept reservations. Be warned: if you're planning to visit the Grill on a weekend, it is absolutely critical that you send a scout to request a table at least an hour before you actually want to eat.

I don't want to brag or anything, but I've got quite a bit of experience with dates that go horribly awry. In post-disaster surveys, ladies noted that their horrible nights were caused by (a) spending an evening alone with me and (b) my miscalculation of the mealtime, which left them starving, cross and non-receptive to my witty banter.

Long story short, I asked for a table at 7:00 p.m. and my lovely dining companion and I were finally seated at 9:20. During our long wait for a table, she and I agreed that the Grill provides a wonderful ambiance; delicate lighting and a sense of openness brought on by transparent glass walls make the Grill a perfect spot to begin a romantic evening.

The noise level was perhaps slightly higher than I would normally prefer but such is the nature of a bustling restaurant. Throughout the night, we found that the service was impeccable and marked with friendliness and respect, despite the fact that we were the restaurant's youngest patrons. For the benefit of its mature clientele, the Grill offers a terrific selection of wines, beers and cocktails.

By way of disclaimer, it is possible that my assessment of the Grill's fare was improved by the starved dementia caused by my unintended nine-hour pre-meal fast. That said, the food was absolutely fantastic, certainly the best meal I've had in my two years at Princeton.

The appetizer menu boasts a variety of soups and starters. We began the meal with a shrimp cocktail ($12) chilled to perfection. Upon the arrival of the dish, my companion raised her eyebrows and noted, "Yikes. Size matters." I was stricken speechless for the first time in my life until I realized she was talking about the shrimp. These elephantine prawns were delicious and have probably spoiled me — I looked at the dining hall's measly shrimp offerings at the following Sunday brunch and silently wept.

Witherspoon Grill's menu is relatively limited in variety, as the majority of the main courses are variations on a theme: steak, steak and more steak. This is not a bad thing by any stretch of the imagination. A few seafood dishes and chicken platters round out the offerings nicely.

I ordered a medium-rare eight ounce filet mignon ($26) which arrived in an interesting cubic shape. Normally I'm morally opposed to consuming geometrically perfect vittles, but I made an exception for the Grill, and I'm happy I did so. The cut was seasoned well and perfectly topped with some mouthwatering fried onions.

Oddly, the Grill's main courses do not include side dishes or salads, but I elected to reaffirm my masculinity by bringing together steak and potatoes for a reunion tour that culminated in my mouth. The side dish of scalloped potatoes ($5) was simultaneously cheesy and spicy and provided a perfect partner for my filet.

My friend ordered a sizable chicken cutlet ($18) sliced into very thin strips. She expressed hearty approval of the dish and the chunk I stole during her bathroom break proved pleasing to me as well. In general, the fare at the Witherspoon Grill proved extremely rich, filling and satisfying in every way.

When my companion and I had completed our meal, the service did not hassle us about moving from our booth but rather allowed us to sit and chat as long as we desired. I appreciated this degree of cordiality and professionalism.

I'd like to formally thank the Grill's employees for allowing me this post-dinner time period to gaze deeply into my companion's eyes and regale her with stories of my years among the motley crew of the French Foreign Legion. I'd also like to give a big shout-out to my friend for pretending to believe me.

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Other than the brutal wait to be seated, the only other negative aspect of the night was the blow my wallet endured when we received the check. An appetizer, two main courses, and a side dish came to a total of $65, meaning that the Witherspoon Grill is probably best reserved for special occasions for the average economically-minded Princeton student. Even so, the check was on the same order of magnitude as other area restaurants, and I feel as if the extra money spent was well worth the terrific dining experience I enjoyed.

The recent opening of the very upscale Witherspoon Grill institution has failed to generate much interest among frugal Princeton students but is definitely worth a try for your next hot date.