More than your basic plaid

By Christine Murphy princetonian contributor

After months of bundling up against the winter weather, a warm breeze has arrived with the Burberry Spring 2005 collection.

The presentation on the catwalk in late September of 2004 promised an elegant but carefree season within the folds of Burberry's latest collection from its Prorsum couture division. Models floated down the runway in perfectly draped chiffon sundresses, pastels flattering their freshly tanned bodies and accessories from head-to-toe making them perfectly suited for an idyllic May afternoon picnic.

Under the direction of designer Christopher Bailey since 2001, Burberry has seamlessly combined old standards with modern trends. The Spring 2005 Burberry Prorsum collection continues this tradition. Prorusm, a word often used by Thomas Burberry, founder of the design house, is Latin for "going forward." Indeed, with the Prorsum collection, new becomes classic and classic becomes trendy.

The Burberry trench coat, a bestselling item since its introduction in the1890s, has been modified for the spring. One rendition offers the coat in brilliant blue gingham, another in laminated bright red floral cotton. An even more radical reinvention is an oversized, three-quarter length sleeve trench in lightweight cotton, offered in several pastel colors; the whimsical design bears a resemblance to an artist's smock. According to an associate at the New York store, who asked not to be identified, "Christopher Bailey believes the trench coat is a must-have . . . a classic . . . but there are always new ways to reinvent the trench."

Burberry carries an air of city-to-country versatility. The spring collection includes nautical stripes, a surprisingly American twist for this 149-year-old British company. The pairing of primary monochromes to produce a high-voltage preppy effect is most evident in the men's designs. A bright blue trench coat combined with a yellow and white nautical striped t-shirt and white pants re-imagines the look of the yachtsmen.

Some combinations recall the trendy schoolboy look: yellow trench coat, forest green tie, white oxford shirt and navy blue plaid trousers. The Burberry associate noted that "the spring 2004 collection was a little dark; [Bailey] wanted a different direction for spring," and admits the collection is "construed as being a bit American." However, "the collection was inspired by [the color block paintings of] British artist David Hockney."

Though an occasional producer of fox fur-trimmed haute couture, the Burberry design team understands the simplicity of springtime and the need for flexible, comfortable clothes. The collection avoids business-type clothing, leaving that task to fashion houses like Ferragamo, who, according to the associate, "is probably Burberry's main competition."

Some of the best pieces in the collection are the cotton skirts. Decidedly casual, the prints range from the prim floral/paisley (suitable for afternoon tea) to the tidy but carefree yellow gingham (perfect for errands around town).

The most alluring pieces from the catwalk are incidentally the current best sellers in the New York store. The "poly-pleat dress with spaghetti straps is hot; a fast mover," as is the babydoll dress in 100 percent silk and a red merino wool knit v-neck sweater with tulip appliqué. Another top item is the linen suit, because of its cropped, single-button blazer. The python hobo bags, which are tissue-like in their delicacy, will also be hot sellers.

The edgy quality of this spring collection is accented by Burberry's offerings of vintage-inspired accessories. Wedge-heel sandals in blue toile match the trench coats. Sheer silk scarves add a delicate hint of color without adding bulky layers. Dark-tinted, rectangular-framed sunglasses, offered in primary colors, top off the '70s glamour approach.

While the collection succeeds with flying colors in some areas, it is shocking and disappointing in others. The white Woven Leather Jacket ($2,995) resembles a wicker chair. Leather itself seems impractical in a spring clothing collection.

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Overall, however, Christopher Bailey has produced another Burberry collection that is just what we want : clean and sophisticated, with a hint of fun.

Other pieces to consider:

The Cinda Bag ($665) reminds shoppers of the saddlebag John Galliano created for Christian Dior, to huge success, several years ago. Yet the Burberry version is uniquely its own, shaped by sophisticated lines and the aristocratic novacheck pattern. The braided leather handle adds a dash of spring flavor. This bag avoids the gaudiness of the Dior bag, yet caters to the same market with more desirable presentation.

The Reversible Quilted Jacket ($595) is a fresh rendition of the popular quilted barn jacket. A mandarin collar, rather than a folded collar, adds a modern edge while the sleeve cuffs fold over to expose a delightful pink floral/paisley print.

The Knit Capelet ($245) is one of the most aesthetically successful items from all the knit pieces on the market this season. Without the dowdiness of pieces aiming for bohemian appeal but ending up somewhere near grandma's closet, this piece is both cute and a practical alternative to the sensible, but overused, cardigan.