An enclave for studying, scoping and sustenance

Panera Bread

136 Nassau Street (609) 683-5222 Sunday-Thursday: 6 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday: 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Price Range: $0.79-$5.95 Overall: *** Food: *** Decor: *** Service: *** *=satisfactory *****=sublime

If you haven't yet been to Panera Bread, chances are you've heard about it — or at least walked by its eye-catching yellow entrance facing Nassau Street.

Located right next door to newly reopened Triumph Brewing Company, Panera has been drawing large crowds since it opened three weeks ago.

With its trendy, urban appeal, it has already established itself as a favorite spot for students to read or convene with friends.

Inside, customers munch on samples of sun-dried tomato bread from a generously laden basket while deciding among the bakery's many options.

Tempting danishes, brownies and muffins beckon from one display window, with shelves of sourdough rounds, bagels and golden baguettes presented behind.

Venturing deeper into the restaurant reveals a separate counter where customers can order soups, sandwiches and salads.

The constant stream of customers adds to the restaurant's clamorous atmosphere, accentuated by its lively decor. Warm ochre and yellow tones, brick walls and vibrant lighting evoke the elements of an oven, well befitting a bakery.

The multiple small tables and booths, beneath eclectic lamps, are conducive to studying but make it difficult to accommodate larger groups.

Students can be seen poring over books while sipping fresh home-style lemonade and whipped-cream-capped espresso drinks.

Unlike similar nearby bakeries and sandwich shops, Panera has enough room to seat virtually all of its customers, even during peak hours.

On a recent dinner visit, I tried Panera's Smoked Turkey Breast sandwich on sourdough bread ($4.95). While, along with the accompanying pickle and bag of potato chips, it made for a satisfying meal, it somewhat reminded me of standard lunchbox fare — good, but predictable.

There was one notable difference, however. Panera's touted sourdough bread was soft yet had a substantial crust and added flavorful undertones to the sandwich.

Panera also offers hot panini-style sandwiches ($6.25), with fillings like sautéed onions, chicken, portobello mushrooms, basil and fresh mozzarella.

They are tasty, but rather small and sometimes only scantly filled.

During the meal, my friends raved about the sourdough bread bowls filled with hearty soups ($4.59).

The French onion version was superb, although the layer of cheese on top was conversely "sub-par."

In my view, the bagels ($.79) are the most memorable of Panera's creations. In addition to familiar standbys0 like sesame seed and blueberry, bagels are available in varieties such as Dutch apple, cinnamon crunch and choco-nut.

These decadent spins on the typical bagel are almost donut-like — sweet with a lighter texture than their more traditional counterparts.

For those opting for a less sweet alternative, the Asiago cheese bagel was excellent. Its crusty topping of sharp parmesan rendered cream cheese unnecessary.

At times, the high volume of customers seems to exceed the store's capacity. During one afternoon, such staples as hazelnut coffee were depleted, the restaurant sold out of all but one type of bagel and the pastry selection became increasingly sparse.

The gradual dwindling of baked goods likely occurred because Panera's products are baked on the premises each night. As a result, offerings are freshest in the morning and popular items tend to run out during the course of the day.

To Panera's credit, this location is still gauging its bearings in a new market, and employees were receptive and exceedingly helpful about making the necessary substitutions.

Indeed, despite the long lines, employees were very pleasant and efficient. Each order was assigned a number to be called out when it was prepared. At one point, I returned to my table after refilling my coffee to find that it had been cleared and wiped in my short absence.

Like Starbucks, with its ubiquitous presence across the country, the Panera franchise is rapidly expanding. Since mid-1999, more than ten locations have cropped up in New Jersey alone. Panera seems to have achieved the same winning combination of quality products and good service that have made Starbucks so successful.

Besides its copious samples, Panera frequently offers a two-for-one deal on bread in the evenings, usually around eight o'clock.

Bread that has not been sold by the end of the night is donated to community charities, as part of Panera's "Operation Dough-Nation" efforts.

At Panera, great bread is clearly the highlight, elevating the restaurant's sandwiches and soup on the culinary scale. Already I'm finding myself looking for opportunities to stop by Panera on my way to or from class — and judging from the crowds, many other students are doing the same.