Delightful dough for not a lot of dough

Witherspoon Bread Company offers heaven in a breadbasket just a few blocks beyond Nassau Street. Its offerings range from sweet to savory, from standard white-flour to multi-grain loaves, and from humble baguettes to decadent pastries.

The interior of the building, which dates back to the 1890s, is lined with windows that allow the sun's warming rays to stream in and meld with the rich smells of baking.

The front windows bear the words "Rustic Handmade Bread" and, living up to that proclamation, all the breads, pastries and cookies are made on the premises following traditional European recipes.

Witherspoon Bread Company's distinctly European atmosphere is enhanced by its vivid decor. Delicate Mediterranean hues of olive, mustard and tomato color the walls, and a photograph depicts a boy running down a cobblestone street, carrying a baguette that rivals him in height.

Standing before the bakery's shelves of carefully stacked loaves and pastries, one cannot help but appreciate bread's versatility and simple appeal.

Loaves of whole wheat and rye bread provide familiar favorites, while nutty loaves, foccacia and sun-dried tomato boules offer new and distinct flavors.

I tried the ciabatta ($2.75), an ancient slipper-shaped bread from Northern Italy. Although made from the most basic ingredients, it had a complex sourdough-like flavor and delicate hints of olive oil. Evidently many customers share in my enjoyment of it — everyone who came in the door left with a loaf of ciabatta in addition to their other purchases.

On an earlier visit to Witherspoon Bread Company, I tasted their challah ($4.00), which is an egg-rich braided bread available with and without raisins. It had a full-bodied flavor with sweet undertones, but seemed somewhat denser than other challah I have had in the past. But anyone who has been unable to find challah in other area bakeries can be assured that a pleasing version can be found here.

Because the breads are free of preservatives, they should be eaten the same day they are purchased. Considering their fine quality, that should not pose a problem.Standard European pastries — such as croissants, brioche and danishes — are also well prepared by the head baker.

The croissant ($1.50) I tried proved his mastery of rich flaky pastry. It was filled with tender apples, which added to the flavor of the pastry without overpowering it, as is the case with cloyingly sweet commercial apple pastries.

I also sampled a peach brioche ($1.50), which had a half of a peach nestled in pastry cream and surrounded with rich dough. In both cases, the pastries and fillings offset each other well, like a gemstone in a ring with a beautiful setting.

The chocolate truffle and Russian tea cookies ($.85) were also worthy indulgences. Although one of the chocolate cookies was a bit overcooked, it had a wonderfully deep flavor. These were the best cookies I have yet encountered in area shops.

Get the best of the ‘Prince’ delivered straight to your inbox. Subscribe now »

There was very little room to sit, however, with only one scant table. With meager tea and coffee offerings, the focus remained firmly on the bread menu.

Witherspoon Bread Company has an almost steady stream of customers. For many, such as area business people and parents with children, stopping in is a daily ritual.

Many international students frequent the bakery as well, grateful for its traditional European recipes.

Despite its neighborhood bakery feel, its owners also operate Mediterra, Teresa's and Pizza Coloré in addition to several other nearby restaurants. Friendly, knowledgeable employees succeed in making it seem less corporate, however.

In a community where bagel shops abound, a trip to Witherspoon Bread Company — with its European flair and neighborhood charm — is sure to be a welcome change of pace.