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Top of the class: student tastemakers

Black North Face fleece, check. New Balance running shoes, check. Collared polo shirt, check. If you've begun to think an unwritten dress code exists at Princeton, take a closer look. There are still a few nonconformists lurking around campus, disguised as your typical English and History majors. For every lecture hall full of studious, preppy all-stars, Princeton can boast one or two accomplished fashion designers. With Princeton's annual Service in Style Fashion Show rapidly approaching, several student fashion designers are busy preparing their designs for the runway. Though these creative folk have not given up on conventional career paths to pursue fashion design as a calling, they do hope that fashion will remain a significant component of their future careers. Read on to find out how your fellow classmates creatively break the ever-present, brand name-clad prepster look with their own fashion designs.

Jocelyn Miller is a freshman with vision. In accordance with a proper liberal arts education, her academic interests vary widely. She has already taken courses in Photography, Painting, French literature, Creative Writing and English literature here at Princeton. During high school, she studied design at the Parson's School Summer Program in Paris. Through continued contact with the Parson's School in NYC, she continues to study design, a creative outlet that she believes allows her to connect all of her academic interests. A self-described "visual arts person," Miller draws inspiration for her designs from literature, French culture and travel.

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Miller first gave fashion design a full-fledged effort when she designed a collection of clothing for a charity fashion show at her high school. She fell in love with the idea of being able to make clothes she really liked for herself. After attending the Parson's design program during the summer before senior year, Miller decided to organize a fashion show for her senior thesis project. She created a whole line of clothing and then worked on the business aspects of fashion merchandising, learning how to market her designs and how to break into the competitive world of fashion. For this project, she used a sewing machine to singlehandedly bring her design conceptions to reality.

She has not yet attempted to find a manufacturer or professional seamstress to make her designs because she's not sure whether she wants to make fashion design a full-time endeavor. She admits that doing all of her own sewing "takes more time than you can imagine, but it makes it so much more worth it once it is done, to know that you have designed and made this one thing all by yourself." It has been the most economical thing to do, although not the most convenient. Though a time-consuming effort, Miller concedes that it is necessary because she is very picky when it comes to detail and must have things perfect according to her vision. With a laugh, she adds that the "Princetonian, Type-A personality" in her prohibits her from accepting anything less than perfection, and working by herself makes that goal most attainable.

Miller's designs will be seen this year in the Service in Style (SIS) fashion show. She is working on a collection of spring fashions that she describes as feminine, flouncy, edgy, a little funky and a definite move out of winter. Currently, thoughts of spring are motivating her to create happy, fun and cute pieces.

Colors will include her personal fave, light minty green, as well as shades of pink, yellow and muted beige tones. She draws inspiration from the everyday woman on the street, focusing on wearable style, but she still appreciates fashion design as an art form.

Miller recalls one of her greatest fashion memories, from studying fashion in Paris. She had the opportunity to visit the studio space of John Galliano and directly observe how he creates masterpieces. She said the most most awe-inspiring part was the Inspiration Boards in the studio: basically huge, abstract collages made up of movie scene stills, runway images, personal photos, landscape photos, provocative images and anything used for inspiration. Miller also uses an inspiration board to help her bring her sources together. This influenced her decision to have each of her models wearing one particular, matching accessory — one dramatic dangly earring that carries a dove and star motif. It is a subtle accessory, but it maintains continuity throughout her designs for the show.

Jocelyn cites actresses Scarlett Johansen and Audrey Hepburn as ideal models that she would enjoy dressing. Some of her favorite designers include Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz of LANVIN and Nicolas Ghesquiere. She says her interest in fashion stems from an attraction to aesthetics and a desire to explore beauty in all things.

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In addition to those working on this year's fashion show, the Princeton campus community can boast of other student designers. Jordan Wagenseller '06 is definitely one. Like the other student designers, Jordan is a busy, accomplished student. She is a member of the Varsity track team and the Social Chair of the University Cottage Club. She is an art history major who also views fashion as a secondary interest that she enjoys incorporating into her academic interests. For her junior paper, she is comparing fashion design and paintings produced within the same decade to observe how the artistic works of the painters influenced fashion design.

In practice, Wagenseller currently designs as a means of creating useful products that she cannot find in stores. If she cannot find a particular style skirt from a store, she will make it. Similarly, when she could not find a tote bag that was quite wide enough or sturdy enough to carry her books to class, she decided to make her own. An unfortunate leg injury during track training over the summer left Wagenseller in Princeton in the middle of summer with nothing to do. Remembering the inadequacy of her current tote bag, she looked at a few popular tote bags and decided she could probably make a similar one that would better suit her needs. Once she made her own bag, friends and family requested that she make similar bags for them. Since the summer, she has mostly made bags as gifts for friends, though she did make and sell several bags during the holiday season.

Given the time constraints of class and all of her extracurricular activities Wagenseller has not looked into manufacturing her bags for consumer sales, even though she has received an order request from a store in Connecticut. She embarrassingly admits that she has not yet followed up on the request, made several months ago. She realizes that it would be profitable to market her tote designs, but at this point in her life, her other interests are more important to her. She comments that being able to make the bags comes in handy when she needs to make a little quick cash. She estimates that she only needs a few hours to make 2 or 3 bags, which she can then sell for about $40 each, more or less depending on the size of the bag.

Focusing on practicality, Wagenseller has also created fashionable computer bags, which are popular among her friends. Again, Wagenseller decided to make her own foam-lined computer bag when she could not find a suitable bag that met her functional needs and aesthetic tastes. She also sees customized computer bags as a marketable product because there are not many fashionable computer bags available. If she only had the time, she might seek to fill that void with her own designs.

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Wagenseller does not see herself pursuing fashion design as a career, but she would like fashion to remain an integral part of her career, whether she decides to become an art director for movies, manage a fashion company or become a business manager of a fashion magazine.

Senior Rosemary Ku is another designer for the SIS fashion show. She is a biology major working furiously to finish her research-based thesis. She is also a premed currently awaiting responses from her top-choice medical schools.

Meanwhile, within the last month, she has established her own company, called RoZCoo, through which she will be selling customized yoga mat bags — fashionable and practical over-the-shoulder bags capable of carrying a yoga mat, exercise accessories, cell phone, wallet and keys. Even the occasional book or two if yoga class and academic classes (or work) happen to run back to back. She offers three styles: trendy faux-croc skin in green and purple, practical black or red canvas with colorful mesh pockets, and a feminine print style. All the bags are satin lined and contain an interior security pocket. Her bags are currently being manufactured and will soon be available for sale in NYC at a Brooklyn boutique, Flirt. Depending on sales success, she may soon market the bags over the Internet and at yoga centers throughout NYC. The bags will sell for $120, slightly cheaper than those currently offered by high-end designers. She hopes her fashionable, utilitarian bags and environmentally friendly approach will make her bags preferable to other yoga mat bags currently on the market.

Ku first began designing clothes for theatrical productions at her high school. In college, she has kept busy by playing in the orchestra, teaching yoga classes and designing when she has the time. She worked with rising design duo Nico & Adrian last month, helping them prepare their fashions for the runway at Fashion Week in NYC. Highlights of the week included being able to meet fashion icon Patricia Field and photographer Pat McMullen. Ku admires designers Donna Karen, Carolina Herrera and Estavon Cortazar.

For the SIS fashion show, Ku is working on 6 designs for women and one male design. All of her designs will be formal attire. Each of her walks will embody a separate idea, each of which could develop into its own collection. When asked to give a preview of what we can expect from her designs, she revealed that one of her designs will feature "a hint of S&M," perhaps "a leather wristband or two." Yet she was quick to reassure that all would remain in good taste.

The classy girl that she is, Ku notes that, given the opportunity, she would love to dress Catherine Zeta-Jones. Only time and consumer demands will tell Ku how far she will pursue her interest in fashion design. Upon receiving acceptance to med school, she intends to request a leave of absence to attend the Parson's School of Design in NYC, where she has gained acceptance to study fashion design.

Sarah Karam is a sophomore from London who draws inspiration from her Lebanese grandmother and her beloved home in the streets of London. Some of her earliest memories include going to the market with her grandmother, a seamstress, and marveling at the reams of beautiful fabric available. She considers fashion design a hobby that has always interested her, given her early exposure to the craft through her grandmother. She also reveals that a key motivator for her is her obsession with being able to create new things — anything, really — that can be identified as a product of her own imagination. She estimates that the first time she began to take design seriously was when she designed some pieces for a charity fashion show at her high school. She designed and created the clothing herself, and she will be following the same method with her designs for the SIS fashion show.

Karam's designs for the fashion show will incorporate the exotic beauty of peacock feathers into styles for both men and women. Karam loves extravagance and deep, rich shades of green, and she sees the peacock feather as a striking instance of naturally occurring glamour that really has not been utilized in the fashion industry. Karam draws inspiration from nature, London and her personal taste, as well as designers such as Oscar de la Renta and Chanel. If she could dress anyone, she would choose to work with Angelina Jolie, who she caught a glimpse of in person on the streets of London. Karam credits her grandmother with teaching her about fashion design but relies on her own creativity to guide her designs.

Though a passionate hobby for Karam, fashion design remains a fantasy career rather than an intended career path. She is curious about the fashion industry, but realizes the risky nature of it. A history major, she is considering studying law, not design, after graduation. She sees business management within the fashion industry as a lucrative career that would combine her academic interests in law with fashion. Likewise, she mentions that she may incorporate a study of fashion history into her thesis research. Like so many other Princeton students, she confesses that her hesitancy to fully immerse herself in fashion design results from a lack of available time and her desire to do so many other things. On campus, Karam also plays club field hockey, plays the flute and is the president of Salaam, the newly organized Middle Eastern cultural club.

Lauren Bush '06 is another accomplished fashion designer on campus whose designs were featured in last year's SIS fashion show. As the veteran in this selection of student designers, Bush refers to designing as a lifelong hobby that she decided to pursue more seriously by attending summer classes at the Parson's School of Design in NYC, as well as the Saint Martins School of Design in London.

Like the other student designers, Bush, an anthropology major pursuing a certificate in photography, integrates her interests in fashion with her academic studies. Though she is not sure whether she will pursue a career in fashion, she sees it as a natural choice for her at this point in life.

However, most importantly, she hopes that her career allows her "to do something creative that effects and helps people."

The opportunity to study abroad has allowed her to expand her fashion design ideas because she feels most inspired to design when traveling and meeting interesting people.

Bush mainly designs women's clothing because, she says, she usually finds herself sketching clothes that she would want to wear herself. When asked to describe her approach to designing clothes, Bush responded, "I tend to just let my mind flow when designing. I think the key is just to combine elements of practicality while also taking risks."

Bush lists John Galliano, Zac Posen, Stella McCarthy and Ralph Bush as a few designers that she admires, though she relates picking a favorite designer to picking a favorite jellybean flavor. Her favorite designer may change entirely depending on her mood on a particular day, and therein lies the risk of a career in fashion.

Considering how fickle customers can be, Bush sticks close to home when asked who would be her dream model to dress. "It would probably be my sister! Because I know her so well, it would be easy and done to make something she would love. She is my little muse," Bush said.

In addition to studying fashion design, Bush has also had experience working as a model, giving her another perspective of how fashion is created. "Modeling has really opened my eyes to the fashion world," she said.

"Getting to work with designers and just to be around people that contribute to the fashion world is inspirational. There is so much that goes into it, and seeing it from the inside has been a great opportunity."